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5 most common beginner mistakes in backgammon

These five mistakes lose you ~30% of your games. Each one has a single fix you can apply in your next session.

Beginner general May 13, 2026

If you’ve played 10 games and you’re losing more than you’re winning, the cause is almost certainly one of these five mistakes. The good news: each has a single fix you can apply immediately.

1. Hitting when you should be making points

The mistake: you see an opponent’s blot in your home board and you hit it because you can.

Why it’s wrong: hitting puts the opponent’s checker on the bar — fine — but it often costs you a point you could have made instead. Worse, you’ve left your own blot in striking distance, so your opponent re-enters and immediately hits you back.

The fix: before hitting, ask “could I make a point instead?” If yes, make the point. If no, hit but check that your hitting checker isn’t itself a blot afterward.

2. Stacking too many checkers on one point

The mistake: you keep adding checkers to the 6-point or 13-point because they’re “safe.”

Why it’s wrong: a point with 6 checkers on it is wasted material. Those extra checkers can’t move efficiently — they’re locked behind their own teammates. You lose mobility.

The fix: if a point has 4+ checkers, the next move should distribute one of them to an adjacent point. Spread your forces.

3. Running back checkers too early

The mistake: on your first roll, you run a back checker (e.g., 24/13 with a 6-5) “to safety.”

Why it’s wrong: sometimes correct (6-5 is the famous “lover’s leap”), but most other rolls don’t. Running a back checker too early gives up your anchor in the opponent’s home — and when you later have a checker on the bar, you have nowhere to land.

The fix: keep your back checkers as anchors unless you have a clean run roll. The back game is your safety net.

4. Ignoring the pip count

The mistake: you don’t know who’s winning.

Why it’s wrong: every strategic decision (race vs. block, take vs. drop the cube, leave a blot vs. play safe) depends on whether you’re ahead or behind. Without the pip count, you’re flying blind.

The fix: count your pips occasionally. Pip count = sum of (point number × number of your checkers on that point). Lower is better. You don’t need to count exactly every turn — just often enough to know whether the gap is widening or shrinking.

The faster way: the difference between your pip count and your opponent’s is what matters. After a few weeks of play you’ll start eyeballing this without calculation.

5. Defending blots when you should be attacking

The mistake: when you have a chance to hit and risk being hit back, you play safe instead.

Why it’s wrong: in many positions, the math is in favor of the attack. Hitting an opponent costs them ~10 pips minimum (back to the bar, then re-entering); your own getting-hit risk is often only worth ~3–5 pips of expected loss.

The fix: when in doubt, hit. The exceptions are: (a) you’re way ahead in the race and don’t need contact, (b) the opponent’s home board is so closed that you can’t re-enter if hit back. Otherwise, lean aggressive.

Self-correction drill

Play 10 games against the computer. After each loss, ask: which of these 5 did I do? You’ll find one or two that show up repeatedly. Fix that one. Then move to the next.

Try the drill now →

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